Fermented in used barrels with blocked malolactic, Doyard's 2008 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru saw 108 months on the lees before it was disgorged with three grams per liter dosage. Wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of gingerbread, warm biscuits, citrus oil, dried white flowers and a delicate hint of olorosso sherry, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive, with an racy spine of acidity, a concentrated core of fruit and a long, searingly intense and delicately sapid finish. The subtle oxidative qualities lend it an appealingly old fashioned feel. As Doyard followers may know, this cuvée derives from Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and Oger.
There’s a subtle power to this graceful champagne, which boasts a firm, crystalline frame of acidity married to the fine, satinlike mousse and notes of white raspberry, brioche and Earl Grey tea. Seamless through to the long finish of smoke and spice accents, this opens beautifully in the glass. Drink now through 2029.
A grand wine, this is the 24th blend of Grand Siécle, the producer’s top cuvée. With wonderful toastiness, the Champagne from grand cru vineyards is at a perfect moment of maturity. Almonds mingle with the white fruits and acidity in perfect balance. Drink now. 95 points (Wine Enthusiast)
From a 30-are parcel of Pinot Noir vines planted in 1980 comes the newly released 2008 Extra Brut Grand Cru Aÿ - Vauzelle Terme, a wine that was disgorged in April 2018 without dosage. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cassis, minty red apples and wet stones, it's full-bodied, ample and mouthfilling, with broad shoulders but a tight-knit, introspective and even somewhat austere core, concluding with an immensely long, sapid finish. The potential here is considerable, but this is the most reserved of these three lieu-dit bottlings and will demand a little patience.
