There’s a subtle power to this graceful champagne, which boasts a firm, crystalline frame of acidity married to the fine, satinlike mousse and notes of white raspberry, brioche and Earl Grey tea. Seamless through to the long finish of smoke and spice accents, this opens beautifully in the glass. Drink now through 2029.
At the House of Krug, every Krug Vintage celebrates the distinct character of a particular year. A Krug Vintage is a blend of the most expressive wines from a single year enhanced by a stay of over ten years in the cellars. Every Krug Vintage is different: it is the Music of the year, captured by Krug.
The story of the year 2004, captured by Krug. With harmonious tension and elegant radiance, Krug 2004 reveals the vibrant story of a fresh year – so much so that the House chose to give it the nickname “Luminous Freshness”.
Created in 1964 as a tribute to the house’s founder, the youngest release is the 2006 Millésime Brut Cuvée Nicolas François, a blend of 60% Pinot Noir from premier and grand crus from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne and 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. Almost entirely fermented in stainless steel (only 5% was vinified in oak barrels) and aged for 11 years on the lees, this is a beautifully ripe and rich yet pure champagne with ripe fruit flavors intermixed with chalky notes and brioche/nougat flavors. The palate is intense and concentrated in its rich fruit and substantial depth but also tight, highly elegant and perfectly balanced. The typical finesse of Billecart-Salmon is palatable as well as amazingly pure, with the persistent structure of a great Champagne. The 2006 already drinks dangerously well, but there is no need to hurry, this will go a long way.
From a 30-are parcel of Pinot Noir vines planted in 1980 comes the newly released 2008 Extra Brut Grand Cru Aÿ - Vauzelle Terme, a wine that was disgorged in April 2018 without dosage. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cassis, minty red apples and wet stones, it's full-bodied, ample and mouthfilling, with broad shoulders but a tight-knit, introspective and even somewhat austere core, concluding with an immensely long, sapid finish. The potential here is considerable, but this is the most reserved of these three lieu-dit bottlings and will demand a little patience.
Disgorged in April 2018 with 2.5 grams per liter dosage, Jacquesson's 2008 Extra Brut Grand Cru Avize - Champ Caïn is showing brilliantly, soaring from the glass with a lively bouquet of waxy lemon rind, green apple, walnuts, marzipan and subtle hints of drawn butter and honey. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, mid-palate volume and structural tension, with a deeper, broader profile than the 2008 Core Bautray tasted alongside. The finish is long, saline and chalky. While Hervé Chiquet observes that Jacquesson has made considerable progress—especially in the vineyards—in the last decade that the 2008 necessarily doesn't reflect, this is nonetheless a brilliant Champagne.
